You & Your Zieman Trailer

PLEASE NOTE: Trailer laws covering such things as brakes, lights, safety chains, licenses, etc., will vary from state to state. Be sure that your trailer is in full compliance with your state laws. Your trailer dealer usually can help you in this regard. If not, contact your nearest State Motor Vehicle Department Office for full information.

THE PROPER MATCH
The key to carefree trailering is proper matching of equipment and trailer. A proper match is one in which the trailer is designed and built to carry the full weight of your equipment and gear, and which provides proper support.

LOAD CARRYING CAPACITY
All Zieman trailers have a certification label attached to the forward part of the trailer. It is required to show the gross vehicle weight rating (G.V.W.R.) which is the load carrying capacity plus the weight of the trailer itself. Be sure that the total weight of your equipment, gear and trailer do not exceed the G.V.W.R. If you don't know the correct weight of your equipment and gear, don't guess - have it weighed. This usually can be done at a local public scale.

WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
Improper weight distribution can cause a trailer to "fishtail" (sway from side to side) as it moves down the highway, putting excessive strains on both towing vehicle and trailer, increasing gas consumption and sometimes causing an accident. The most effective way to guard against fishtailing is to make sure that the weight load on your trailer is properly distributed.

It is extremely important that 7 to 12% of the total weight of your loaded trailer should be felt at the trailer coupling ball when the tongue is parallel to the ground. A bathroom scale can be used in most cases to determine the weight on the trailer hitch ball. Check the information supplied by the trailer manufacturer to see if there is a specific percentage for your particular model. For example, if the gross weight of trailer, boat and gear is 1,500 pounds, the weight on the tongue should not be more than 180 pounds, nor less than 105 pounds. (Some auto manufacturers say that tongue weight should not exceed 200 pounds when using a weight- carrying hitch with full-size cars.)

If the weight down on the coupling ball does not fall within the proper range, you should take immediate steps to achieve it. If only a small adjustment is required, you may be able to solve the problem simply by shifting some of the gear from back to front or vice versa.

The importance of an adequate down load on the hitch ball cannot be overemphasized.

Note: TO AVOID "FISHTAILING" AND UPWARD SHOCK LOADS WHICH MAY CAUSE COUPLER FAILURE, 7 TO 12% OF THE TOTAL WEIGHT OF THE LOADED TRAILER MUST BE ON THE TRAILER HITCH BALL.

SAFETY CHAIN
The safety chain on your trailer provides added insurance that it will not become detached from the towing vehicle when underway. You should make sure that the safety chain is correctly attached between the towing vehicle and trailer before each trip.

The safety chain should be loose enough to make full turns, but tight enough to prevent trailer contact with the road if the ball and coupler should become detached.

LIGHTS

State and Federal regulations require all types of trailers to be equipped with tail, stop, turn and side marker lights. Trailers more than 80 inches wide also are required to have clearance and identification lights. Lights that comply with these regulations are supplied by Zieman Manufacturing, but it is the owner's responsibility to maintain them in good operating condition at all times.

A special wiring harness for connecting trailer lights to the lighting system of the tow vehicle comes with the trailer. Be sure the white ground wire from the connector is attached to the frame so that the hitch ball does not have to act as an electrical connection. NOTE: Some late-model cars have yellow turn signals and separate (red) stop lights. In this case, a special wiring adapter will have to be installed in the car.

Here are a few things you can do to keep your trailer lighting system in good working order:

1. At least once to twice a year, trace the wiring system from the tow vehicle to the trailer and back. Look for bare wires, cracked or chafed insulation and corroded or rusted terminals. Be sure the white ground wire is still connected to the trailer frame. Replace any parts that are damaged or badly worn.

2. A little dab of waterproof grease on plug contacts and light bulb bases will help to prevent rust and corrosion.

3. Before every trip, check for burned out or broken bulbs, cracked or broken light lenses, etc.

WHEELS, TIRES AND HUBS

LUG NUTS
The wheel may reseat itself slightly after the first miles of travel. During the first 75 - 100 miles, check wheel bolt tightness. Before each trip, check for loose or missing lug nuts. When tightening lug nuts, use a wrench of the right size, and if you lose a nut, replace it promptly. You should tighten lug nuts to wheel manufacturer's recommended foot pounds of torque.

TIRES
The most common cause of tire trouble is under-inflation. It is important, therefore, that you always maintain full air pressure, as indicated by the tire manufacturer on the tire's sidewalls. Always check air pressure when tires are cold.

LUBRICATION
Please refer to the information provided in the BEARING BUDDY AXLE booklet.

TRAILER JACKS
Like any mechanical assembly, a jack requires maintenance to function properly over a long period of time. Drive gear, rack and pinion should be greased and the caster and the wheel bearings should be oiled frequently.

IMPORTANT
If your trailer is equipped with a swivel jack, it is important to make sure that the locking pin or pins are locked into the receiving holes prior to raising or lowering the tongue. Failure to do this, may result in damage to your trailer and/or personal injury.

TIE-DOWNS
Insuring that your equipment is held securely in place on the trailer, especially when underway, is extremely important. If it is not firmly and properly secured, your equipment can be damaged as it bounces against the supports - or it may slide or fall off the trailer while being towed.

HITCHING UP
Hitching your trailer to your tow vehicle usually is a one-man job, but it is easier if you have a second person to help you. Here are the basic steps:

1. Back your tow vehicle as close as possible to the trailer; it's easier and safer, than pulling the trailer to your car or truck.

2. Check to be sure the coupler locking device is released.

3. Raise the front end of the trailer, position the coupler directly over the hitch ball and lower until it is all the way down over the ball.

4. Check under the coupling to be certain that the ball clamp is BELOW THE BALL and not riding on top of the ball.

5. Lock the coupler to the hitch ball. To be sure it is in the locked position and securely in place, raise up on the trailer tongue. If it comes loose from the ball, unlock and go back to Step #3.

6. Be certain the jack is in the fully raised position

7. If your trailer has a surge brake break-away cable or chain, attach it to tow vehicle, making sure there is enough slack for tight turns.

8. Attach the safety chain (See "Safety Chain" Section).

9. Connect trailer wiring harness to lighting system of tow vehicle and check operation. (See "Lights" Section).

TRAILERING TACTICS
With a trailer in tow you are operating a vehicle combination that is longer, heavier and sometimes wider and taller than your car or truck. This means you will have to make a few adjustments in your normal driving practices to compensate for the difference. Here are a few tips to help you enjoy carefree trailering:

TAKE A "SHAKEDOWN CRUISE"
Before you make your first trip with your trailer, make at least one short trial run to familiarize yourself with its handling characteristics and to be sure everything is working properly - lights, brakes, hitch, etc.

SLOW DOWN
There is less strain on your car, trailer and equipment at moderate to slow speeds. Also, many states have lower speed limits for vehicles towing vehicles.

ALLOW EXTRA TIME AND SPACE
You'll need more of both when passing and stopping, especially if your trailer is not equipped with brakes.

CHECK REAR VIEW MIRRORS
Install outside rear view mirrors on both sides of the tow vehicle. Make it a habit to check the mirrors at frequent intervals to be sure your trailer and equipment are riding properly.

SWING WIDER
Trailer wheels are closer to the inside of turns than the wheels on your car or truck, this means you should swing wider at curves.

PASS WITH EXTRA CARE
With a trailer in tow you'll need more time and distance to accelerate, get around a slower vehicle and return to the right lane.

WATCH THE WIND
Be prepared for sudden changes in air pressure and/or wind buffeting when larger vehicles pass you from either direction. Slow down a little and keep a firm hold on the steering wheel.

CONSERVE FUEL
Wind resistance against the load and trailer can reduce your gas mileage significantly, especially at higher speeds. Streamline your rig with a cover, and make sure any hatches are closed securely.

AVOID SUDDEN STOPS AND STARTS
Even if your trailer has brakes, a sudden stop could cause it to skid, slide or even jackknife. (Be especially careful to avoid the necessity for quick stops while turning.) Smooth, gradual starts and stops will improve your gas mileage and put less strain on your tie downs, etc.

SIGNAL YOUR INTENTIONS
Well before you stop, turn, change lanes, or pass, use your light signals to let other vehicles know what you intend to do.

SHIFT TO LOWER GEAR
If your tow vehicle has a manual transmission, traveling in lower gear when going up steep hills or over sand, gravel, or dirt roads will ease the load on your engine and transmission. If your tow vehicle has an overdrive gear (manual or automatic) you may get better gas mileage in a lower gear.

ALWAYS BE COURTEOUS
Make it as easy as possible for faster moving vehicles to pass you. Keep to the right side of the road and be prepared to slow down if they need extra time to return to their proper lane.

DON'T TAILGATE
Allow at least one car and trailer length between you and the car ahead for each 10 mph on your speedometer.

IF A PROBLEM OCCURS
The general rule is stay cool. Don't panic and don't do anything any more suddenly or violently than you have to. A sudden bumping or "fishtailing" may be a flat tire. Don't jam on the brakes or mash the accelerator to try to "drive out of it". Stop slowly and in as straight a line as possible. If conditions permit, allow your rig to coast to a very slow speed and try to avoid braking, except when your wheels are straight ahead and the trailer and your tow vehicle are in line. If your trailer begins to fishtail as you accelerate to highway speed, back off a little and it should cease. If it begins again as you accelerate, stop and check your load. It probably is not evenly distributed side to side or it is too far back so the hitch load is low. Redistribute your load before continuing.

TRAILERING CHECK LIST
To avoid any problems or breakdowns on the highway, you should make a final check of the following items before every trip and each time you stop for gas:

• TRAILER HITCH - Is it securely in place on the tow vehicle?

• COUPLER - Is is locked to the hitch ball? To be sure it is, raise the trailer tongue.

• SAFETY CHAIN - Is it properly attached to the trailer hitch? It is tight enough to keep it from dragging on the ground but with enough slack for tight turns?

• LIGHTS - Are they connected to the tow vehicle and working properly? Have a second person step on the brake and operate the turn signal as you check the lights to be sure.

• TIE DOWNS - Is your load tied down and tightly in place?

• WHEELS - Are tires properly inflated? Be sure to check while they are cold. Are lug nuts tight?

• BRAKES - Are they working? Is break-away chain or cable attached?

• EXTRA GEAR - If you are carrying baggage, extra gear or equipment, is it secured to prevent movement or loss on the highway?